While on holiday at Negombo, a few miles north of Colombo, I had the opportunity of sailing a local proa. It was managed by a gentleman named Mohammed. Each morning, he would visit tourists sunning themselves on the beach of Browns Beach Hotel*. His charm and tact enabled him to persuade visitors to take rides on his proa - this was for a mutually agreed fee, according to one's bargaining skill. I needed little persuasion; indeed I was keen to sample the experience. The minimum time sailing was one hour, but one can 'charter' his boat for a day or more - all negotiable.

The Boat

This particular proa has a fibreglass hull fitted with traditional wooden support arms and a wooden float. Being about 30 feet overall, and having a very narrow hull, she is extremely fast - possibly 13 knots was experienced by me on one exhilarating sail. Most of the other proas along the beach are totally of wooden construction, but Mohammed is proud that his proa is faster than all of them!

These graceful and purpose-built vessels are mainly used for shrimping and fishing. On more than one occasion, the seascape was filled with their sails. I counted seventy proas in all! Families rely upon their catch for survival. Therefore most of the boats are kept in tip-top condition. Their bright colours make a lively picture, as these natural sailors skilfully go about their business.

Unlike western sailing craft, when reaching or beating, they are always sailed with the float to windward. To make a tack, the leading edge of the sail is taken from one end of the boat to the other and the sheet is also reversed. Thus, the process of 'tacking' is rather slow, which limits their practicality for navigating narrow rivers. Two long oars are carried, and they are often used, either to make extra speed, or for the purpose of keeping the vessel on course - particularly when dragging a trawl. Leeway is prevented by leeboards at both ends of the boat and sometimes by a centrally placed board. Because proas go in forward and reverse directions, rudders are difficult to locate. Instead, steering is done by using the board near the 'stern' - or what would normally be the stern. These boats can be made to quietly lie a-hull. When doing so, they have some downwind drift, while the sail is allowed to flap, and the float remains upwind. Launching and beaching requires, at least, a team of five or six fit people, who, in unison, lift and shove the proa in the appropriate direction.

Proa Sailing Holiday?

I managed to strike up a relationship with the crew who regularly operate Browns Beach Hotel proa. Most of them can understand English. I suggested to Mohammed that he should look into the possibility of running a beach camping holiday using his proa. Such an adventure would include sailing along the beautiful coastline of western Sri Lanka. He said it could be arranged on an individual, or group basis - prices, as usual, to be negotiated. The whole thing would be flexible according the requirements of participants. Perhaps they may like a day's fishing, or an exhilarating day of speed sailing? Maybe they would want some scuba diving or snorkelling on the reefs, which can be found in that area? Towards the southern tip of this, 'Jewel in the Sun', the beaches and water are cleaner and the best diving can be found there.

If you fancy such an adventure, you can get in touch with Mohammed himself by writing to: M.C. Mohammed, 295, Porutota, Kochchi Kade, Sri Lanka. He has a friend who will take telephone calls at 00 94 74 870 875. (I am uncertain how fluent his friend is at English, but you may be able to arrange a time to speak to Mohammed at his friend's house. Please remember that Sri Lanka time is six hours in advance of GMT.) Before your contact him to explore the possibility of a proa sailing holiday, I would be willing to answer your initial questions. (See Navigation Bar for my E-mail address.)

Risk

Such a holiday would be entirely at your own risk. Safety requirements and regulations are virtually non-existent in Sri Lanka. I did not see any safety equipment aboard Mohammed's proa. There was no positive buoyancy, apart from the wood used in its construction. I assume the crew have no navigational qualifications. The boat does not carry a compass, but the crew certainly know their local waters and meteorological conditions. Likewise, they can handle their vessel well. Inevitably, participation in an 'adventure' holiday of this kind brings about a high element of risk to life and limb. You would be advised to take your own life jacket, and an inflatable mattress to keep you above the beach bugs, when camping. Finding suitable insurance for a holiday of this type may be difficult.

I would recommend choosing the time of your holiday with care. November, December and January are particularly good, because then it is almost always sunny, with good winds of about force three or four; they come from the sea during daylight hours, but, at night, the wind direction is reversed.

Responsibility

Should you arrange a holiday with Mohammed, I accept no responsibility for anything that may occur. You undertake negotiations and participate as individuals and do so entirely at your own risk.

You may be able to book accommodation at *Browns Beach Hotel, 175 Lewis Place, Negombo, Sri Lanka. 00 94 31 22638. Fax 00 94 31 24303. Kuoni Travel. (When on-line, click 'Hotels', then 'Browns Beach Hotel'.)

Flight schedules can be obtained from Sri Lankan Airlines http://www.airlanka.com/.

Bill Serjeant.

Copyright 2001/4 Small Sailboats.

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