By studying these photographs one can see why the Roamer Dinghy has been so enduring and appealing to those who enjoy dinghy cruising. Strictly speaking the Roamer is not your typical general purpose dinghy, because she carries 56lbs of removable lead ballast and has a metal centreplate weighing 80lbs. Eric Coleman, the designer, certainly knew what characteristics were needed to make a 14' dinghy have excellent sea-keeping qualities, such that she could remain at sea happily in wind speeds of force six. In those conditions going to windward she is undoubtedly wet, but under storm jib and two reefs in the main, she has sufficient power to make headway enabling her to claw-off a lee shore.

You will notice the stern-castles and the raised foredeck which are completely water-tight. They provide buoyancy in the event of a capsize and their combined effect with the ballast is sufficient to right the boat.

A boat with some character, she is in my eyes attractive and practical. She has two chines and her underbody is protected by rubbing-strips. A skeg runs almost the full length of the hull. It provides directional stability and helps to give lateral resistance when sailing to windward. When fully raised, the lifting rudder is clear of a line horizontal with the base of the skeg, which means it is protected when the boat dries out or runs aground.

The cockpit has removable side benches which optimize space for camping aboard. It is not immediately noticable that the floorboards are raised above the keelson, thus separating crew from any bilge water. These floorboards are almost level with the top of the centreplate case, which means the latter does not take-up space or interfere with camping accommodation.

You will observe a water-tight stern locker in which can be kept clothing or other articles that need protection from the elements.

There are inflated buoyancy bags under the side decks. Raised rowlock supports are attached to the side decks and they are suitably placed above frames for strength.

The whole boat is well-structured with many frames into which stringers are slotted and where the chines join.

Here you can see the tabernacle which is essential when trailer sailing because it makes raising and lowering the mast a doddle. There is no backstay, but the aft stays are kept in place by articulated crosstrees and both sets of side stays come together at their respective chainplates. The mast is raised by using permanent blocks and tackle attached to the lower end of the forestay.

Take note of the washboard which helps to keep off any invading water that might mount the foredeck when the going gets tough.

Adjustable foresheet fairleads with jamming-cleats are useful when changing between genoa, jib and storm jib. In the event of fairlead failure there are spares ones on both side decks.

This is NOT how it should be done! I have improved on the technique whereby the trailer wheels are only immersed as far as the axle so that the bearings do not get wet. In that position the boat can be released from the bow downhaul; then its bow can be lifted so that the boat gently slides into the water, but remember to hold the painter! The rudder can be shipped before launching, but as a precaution to prevent damage, maybe it is better to wait until afterwards. If there is an outboard engine the same rule applies.

Recovering the boat is the 'launching procedure' in reverse order.

If the slipway is covered with weed, mud or shingle, I use a length of strong rope between the trailer and car. This allows the car to remain on a surface with good traction beyond these hazards. Don't forget to make sure the rope is firmly attached to the ball-hitch with two round-turns and one half-hitch. (If you make the mistake of using a bowline you may have difficulty in undoing it.)