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'Acadia' - Second Tender to 'Bumper'
I am at home, and in front of me is my Imray C9 chart showing features between Beachy Head and the Isle of Wight. I examine various courses drawn on the chart's water resistant surface. Hourly positions remind me of Bumper's progress from Emsworth Yacht Harbour to her new home at Burnham-on-Crouch. Here's my account of how it happened.
Sunday 14th March
It had been my intention to put the boat on the grid for a scrub before leaving Emsworth, but it was far too windy and dangerous. Therefore I decided to set sail early the next day, although 'Bumper' had a fouled bottom! (Doesn't sound pleasant, does it?)
All the usual gear was loaded aboard. There were tools, navigation equipment, food and fuel. I was a little nervous, because I had not tried 'Bumper' under sail, or with the engine, but all went well. It was a matter of 'escaping' the confines of the marina under power; then we needed to follow the well-marked channel leading south through Chichester Harbour towards the Solent.
Monday 15th March
The morning was dull and overcast, and there was very little wind. Because the tides were not favourable for going up Channel, I picked up a mooring two miles north of Eastney Point, near the entrance of Chichester Harbour. It took most of the day to sort the stores and equipment and to put them into their proper places in preparation for an early start the next morning.
Tuesday 16th March
Although the 0535 Tuesday shipping forecast predicted winds from the south or south west of between force 5 and 7, we made a start at 0620. The flood tide and wind were against us, but the Bukh DV10 moved 'Bumper' towards the open sea. Unfortunately it was not long before there was an audible warning, and a blue flashing light at the instrument panel. By examining the engine manual I discovered the likely cause was that the temperature of the engine was probably too high, or perhaps the alarm itself was faulty. Every now and then the alarm would stop. Therefore I reasoned the overheating was marginal. Later, I discovered that by running the engine with more revs the alarm no longer sounded.
'Bumper' does not have a gimbals cooker; therefore to make a hot drink one needs to secure the kettle. I devised a technique of hooking the cooker lid over the handle of the kettle, but this only worked when sea conditions were fairly calm. Throughout the trip I periodically made tea or coffee and had frequent snacks, including a sandwich lunch each day.
The Autohelm worked a treat. It freed me for navigation and watch keeping. At 0928, when we were south of Selsey Bill, we changed course for 'The Looe' channel. There the south west wind was in our favour, so I turned off the engine. A large, white metal ketch soon overtook us. For the next 5 miles, we headed towards the East Borough Head buoy. Here the water was fairly shallow - on average 7 metres.
My chart indicated 2 degrees of westerly variation, which I discounted, because steering to that perfection was not possible. Our general heading was in the direction of Brighton, about 22 miles as the crow flies. The sun made an appearance and the wind was warm, which made it feel like a summer's day. I could see some impressive buildings in the distance at Bognor Regis and, because of their unusual shape, I thought they may have some connection with the Butlins Holiday Resort. Apart from a ship heading east and well to the south of us, 'Bumper' was alone.
By 1440 we were approximately 3 miles south of Worthing. Within two hours Shoreham-by-sea was the same distance to the north. The GPS was really helpful. It made navigation easy, but I frequently checked our position by taking compass bearings and soundings.
Just as the alarm clock reminded me of the 1754 shipping forecast we arrived at the narrow entrance to Brighton Marina. On the approach to the Marina I prepared the fenders and lines in preparation for docking at the visitors' pontoon. The manoeuvre went smoothly. Only one other yacht was at the pontoon - unlike high season when it would not be unusual for yachts to be rafted together.
After the evening meal I phoned Martin, who was one of the previous co-owners of 'Bumper'. I wanted to know if he could shed any light on the apparent engine over-heating problem. He thought the water filter or inlet may have become partially blocked, although in his experience it had not happened before.
Needless to say, after the day's exertions I slept reasonably well that night.
Wednesday 17th March
The shipping forecast for Wednesday, 17th March predicted south or southwest winds of between 3 and 4, and occasionally 5. There would be drizzle and some rain - almost ideal, except for the unwanted moderate to poor visibility.
Because it was £13.65 a night for the delights of Brighton Marina, I decided to get going. Immediately outside the Marina we found ourselves in a pea-souper. Visibility was no more than 30 to 50 metres, but with the aid of the GPS I felt confident to continue. If the fog persisted I would need to be vigilant south of Newhaven, because of cross-channel ferries, but apart from any small inshore fishing vessels there would be little traffic.
There was no wind, which meant the engine had to be used, which made it difficult to hear other craft if they were in the vicinity. Sometimes I went to the bow to listen for boats. On three occasions looming out of the fog I saw flotillas of little grey and white seabirds swimming in straight line formations. These birds were always reluctant to take evasive action until the last moment; then they would scurry away or dive. After a few moments, they would emerge for a gulp of air before submerging again.
We kept at least 2 miles from the cliffs to avoid getting snarled up with fishermen's lines and buoys, but we encountered some. By observing them I was able to judge the speed of the current and the direction in which it was running - as suspected, contrary to our course of travel!
At three miles to go before Beachy Head I started plotting positions every quarter of an hour to ensure we kept a satisfactory offing. Near the cliffs there's deep water; therefore we were able to pass the lighthouse within half a mile. Fortunately the fog lifted a little for a good sighting and in the vicinity of the lighthouse there were some fishing vessels. One of them, a catamaran, was particularly impressive because of her speed and stable platform. The scene was surreal, with silver layers of horizontal fog hovering above an undulating grey sea, both contrasting with the white and red stripes of the lighthouse. The latter reminded me of a barber's pole and I was conscious of the fact that over the years many people had taken their lives by leaping off those high, perpendicular, chalk cliffs. At the base of them there are huge boulders forming a natural barrier against the turbulent waters of the English Channel.
Five miles to the east of this landmark there is the distinctive Royal Sovereign Light Tower, complete with its helicopter platform, but we were headed for the red buoy a mile to its north. The fog thickened, and, as we made our way to the east, it encapsulated us as if inside a white cocoon. We took a new course for a point half a mile south of Dungeness, where I hoped the fog would lift sufficiently for a sighting of the nuclear power station. It's an easy mark to spot that can be seen in good visibility for at least 10 miles.
When alone on a boat there's always a risk of collision - because the crew cannot be in two places at once. While reading a chart or making a cup of tea the crew is unable to keep a proper watch. Although I knew there would be an increased the risk of a collision if I washed and shaved while in the cabin, I elected to do it. Then, being refreshed by this ablution I was doubly alert after it.
Returning to the cockpit I noticed a distinct chill in the air and a dampness which brought wind and denser fog. Therefore I stopped the engine and was pleased to discover 'Bumper' sailing at 3 knots. I couldn't hear a sound, except a satisfying gurgle from the bow, as the yacht sliced her way through relatively calm water.
The evening shipping forecast predicted the wind would be variable, becoming south west 3 to 4, then 5 to 7 later.
At 1940 I noticed a white light to port. Then it dawned on me that neither 'Bumper' nor the unidentified boat was making sound signals, even though visibility was less than a quarter of mile on account of the fog, but while single-handed it is not at all easy, especially over a long period. Some would say I was irresponsible to sail under those conditions, but the chance of colliding with another vessel at that time of year, in that place, was very remote.
Our ETA for Dungeness was 2115, co-inciding with high water at Rye.
While rounding the headland I could hear the horn sound 3 times every minute, and the direction from which it came gave a good indication of 'Bumper's' progress. We gradually changed course from 070 degrees in an anticlockwise direction, until we pointed true north, where the depth of water was 110 feet. At 51 degrees north I steered west towards the eastern side of the Dungeness peninsula until the depth sounder indicated 5 metres. There I set the anchor 3 miles almost due north of Dungeness, and I could no longer hear the lighthouse fog signal. After a hot meal and a cup of Horlicks I settled in for the night. Protected from the south west wind the sea was quite smooth, although 'Bumper' rolled a little to help my slumber. I woke a couple of times during the night and went on deck to make sure the anchor was holding. Because the tide was falling I didn't think there was much chance the boat would cause the anchor to drag, but it was reassuring to observe the cable by the light of a torch as it cleaved the water.
Thursday 18th March
At 0645 I stowed the anchor in its self-draining locker and made sail, but it was not long before the wind failed completely. Reluctantly I started the engine. At 0800 we passed near a fishing boat, while visibility was approximately a quarter of a mile, but by 0945 the fog started to lift enough for me to see the white cliffs of Dover. The ebb tide was very much in our favour as we glided effortlessly towards the western entrance of Dover Harbour. I dutifully informed Harbour Control that we were about to pass the entrance, but could not gain a response. There was a lot of radio traffic, especially concerning the comings and goings of various ferries.
By 1030 we had passed the eastern entrance of the harbour and were in a safe zone south of South Foreland. The wind began to increase, such that I reefed one panel, but by the time we were heading north towards Deal it was necessary to have just 2 panels. More often than not, sailing up the eastern side of Kent is like being in the fast lane. The current swishes one along at about 2 to 3 knots and there are various channels to negotiate. Because there was ample water, we took a course due north from the South Brake Buoy and this brought us to the dredged channel into Ramsgate Harbour. I was granted permission by Harbour Control to follow the dredger into the harbour, and shortly 'Bumper' was tied to a pontoon at the Royal Harbour West Marina. It was a solitary position, because there was only one visiting yacht - not exactly the start of the yachting season! This was confirmed by the mid-day shipping forecast, when winds of force 9 were predicted for Ramsgate. In the event, it transpired to be a force 10!
That night was simply awful. Trying to sleep was impossible because of the diabolical movement and noise. High water was around 2200 when the surge in the harbour was at its worst.
Friday 19th March
Winds were between 8 and 9 for most of the day. I was amazed at the seas breaking on the shallows to the south of the Harbour. It was no surprise that ferries were not permitted to sail. To fritter the time away I wandered around some of the local streets for some window shopping.
In the evening it was so uncomfortable aboard, I visited a local Internet cafe where I caught up with my e-mails and various online discussion groups, but I was anxious for 'Bumper', fearing she may break loose.
Saturday 20th March
Hearing another dreadful forecast I decided to seek help from the Marina staff to get 'Bumper' into the Inner Harbour. I persuaded the staff it was necessary, and although they were very reluctant at first, it all worked well. First I had to untangle 20 lines before we could get under way. There were 10 to keep the boat clear of the pontoons and 10 secondary ones as backup.
With one member of staff aboard 'Bumper', we set off under power while the yacht heeled alarmingly. There was barely sufficient engine thrust to enable us to make up into the wind while going south west, and controlling our speed down wind for the approach to the berth was demanding. Fortunately all went to plan. Another member of staff was at the pontoon waiting to take our warps. When they were made fast I breathed a sigh of relief and thanked the Marina crew for their assistance.
Because the weather forecast showed no let up for two or three days I returned home by train.
Tuesday 23rd March
By the skin of my teeth I managed to arrive at the Marina with 20 minutes to spare before the gates were shut, and I just managed to move 'Bumper' into the West Marina in time. A visiting yacht was also at the pontoon, providing some company, and later another joined us. She was a gleaming, new 45 footer, with a crew under tuition. Her approach to the pontoon was rather too fast and it was fortunate I was there to take a warp and fend off.
Wednesday 24th March
To make use of the tides I needed to leave Ramsgate at 0300, and was ready to do so, but was prevented departing by Harbour Control until 0435, by which time the last of the ebb going north had ceased. Nevertheless, I wanted to make a start for crossing the Thames, so I went ahead. As sure as eggs are eggs, the tidal atlas proved correct, and 'Bumper' found herself almost stationary while heading north. At the East Margate Buoy, around 0815, we virtually came to a halt because of the adverse tide. Shortly afterwards some progress was made in the direction of the Tongue Sand Tower. As the tide eased, just before coffee time at 1030, better progress over the ground was achieved.
We took what seemed to be the best course on the north side of the Princess Channel in about 8 metres. It proved exciting, because several ships were making their way westwards at the same time. A well crewed, very large wooden sloop soon overhauled 'Bumper' and disappeared into the distance. This stretch of the Thames estuary was fine sailing with a fresh wind from the north, but when we emerged at the western end of the Princess Channel it was necessary to head 330 degrees true, in order to hold a course for the SW Barrow Buoy at the southern end of the West Barrow sands. Just after mid-day we rounded the SW Barrow Buoy for a course north-east up the West Swin. The flood tide was so strong that hardly any ground was covered for twenty minutes, but as the current eased and the wind veered, we motor-sailed north across the Foulness Sands. This took us through the Shoebury Artillery Range danger area, but thankfully the guns were not being fired at the time.
As the tide started to ebb, it helped lee-bow us towards the north.
Parts of Foulness Sands extensively dry out more than two metres above mean low water, but there was time for us to find Buxey No 1 Buoy before there was insufficient water for 'Bumper' to pass safely. At the No 1 Buoy we turned south west towards the entrance of the River Crouch. Fortunately the wind was directly behind us propelling 'Bumper' over a two knot ebb. It was very pleasant sailing en route to the Crouch and Inner Crouch Buoys, but I needed sunglasses to see the buoys, because exceedingly bright sunshine was being reflected off the broken water.
The wind gradually decreased, and by 1800 there was only a zephyr. Reluctantly I started the engine. Within an hour I picked up a buoy off Rice and Cole's Yard. This was convenient, because I intended to keep the yacht on one of their buoys for the season. The evening meal was soon cooked, and as I ate it, I felt a great contentment, because the objective had been achieved - 'Bumper' was at her new home.
Thursday 25th March
An early start was made, and by 0715 the yacht was secure at Rice and Cole's pontoon. I left her there for the Yard staff to look after. Within an hour of catching the train at Burnham-on-Crouch I arrived at Hockley station, and after a brisk fifteen minute walk I was enjoying a welcome hot bath. Both the crew and yacht were at their respective homes.
Bill Serjeant
15.05.04